There is a place with a wind speed recorded at 231mph, where the temperature is known to hit 50 degrees below zero, and where 137 fatalities have been recorded on its premises. The temperature can drop from 75 degrees to 35 degrees in a couple of hours. Here, on the right day in the right place, you can wake up with your head in the clouds — literally. Chances are, as you’re imagining this place – even if you read the title – your mental image does not conjure New Hampshire. That’s too bad, because if you haven’t visited New Hampshire’s White Mountains, it’s time to start planning your next big outing.
Mount Washington
Mount Washington is the tallest mountain in the northeast United States at 6,288 feet. Washington is home to crazy weather patterns and an unpredictable climate that give it a dangerous edge. That’s not to say this mountain isn’t accessible though, and in fact its accessibility is both a blessing and a curse. Mount Washington, unlike the surrounding mountains, has several different ways to access its peak — hiking, driving, and even a railroad – giving just about anyone access to the summit. It’s great that anyone can get there and see things they may otherwise never have the chance to see, but this also means that on the wrong day this is the kind of mountain where you’re going to be waiting in line to photograph the summit sign. Whether or not the spot is touristy, it’s absolutely worth the trip up on a clear day to see the 70-mile-plus visibility in all directions. I focused on the Auto Road up the mountain for this particular trip; it’s a 7.6-mile toll road lacking guardrails and even, in some places, lacking pavement, with an average 11.6% grade and in some spots hardly enough space for oncoming cars to pass one another. The warning at the base of the mountain to use only low gears, to stop to cool your brakes, and that if you don’t like heights to brace yourself is not a joke. This road will stress your vehicle, and in rare cases ruin it. An example is the Volkswagen I saw come down the road on a flatbed, completely burnt to a crisp from a transmission failure. Even the newest of vehicles smells like burning brakes descending the mountain, never mind my nearly 16-year-old
Jeep
which has now conquered the road twice. It is an expensive toll at $29 per vehicle and an additional fee per passenger, but a rewarding and thrilling experience and definitely worth a trip.
Where to Camp?
The Whites are full of places to camp, have a nice fire, and cook some delicious food on the flames or the stove. My go-to spot is the Dolly Copp campground. It is a big campground, but all the spots are quiet and fairly private, and the entire campground is set back off the highway, keeping noise minimal (though that means there are very few “scenic” sites, most are just heavily wooded). The campground has bathrooms with electricity and water (except for the reservation-only side, Barnes Field, where the outhouses will make your eyes water and nose burn). Rates are average at $22 per night, and in my experience a good value. Firewood and ice are sold at the gatehouse for a reasonable price. The campground is currently under construction in parts to add more facilities, such as showers and more electrical hookups for RVs. Its location is also right in the heart of the national forest, meaning you’re just a short drive or hike away from the seemingly endless mountains, waterfalls, trails, and scenic spots.
If you’re looking to get out of the heart of the national forest, places like Jericho Mountain State Park and Crawford Notch also offer camping. While I haven’t personally stayed at either, I’ve been told positive things about both – definitely worth a look. While I can’t specify an exact location on this, if you’re in a pinch and need to camp quickly or for some reason can find no availability, heading a bit north of Gorham and east of Jericho Mountain State Park will prove beneficial – but make sure you’ve got 4-wheel drive and that you put away all of your food items at night.
Where to Eat?
The White Mountains offer a good variety of places to eat, from stereotypical breakfast joints to organic, gluten-free grocers. I’m the kind of traveler who tends to pack and make my own food out on the road, eating light breakfasts in camp, skipping lunch for travel, and then concocting a nice little dinner in camp later at night, so I don’t spend a lot of time in “official restaurants.” But I’m a big coffee fan, so I spend a lot of time checking out coffee roasters and coffee shops on the road, some doubling as small eateries. If you’re passing through North Conway, you can’t go wrong with The Met and Frontside Grind. The Met doubles as an art gallery, with a nice “classic hotel” vibe inside. Sitting down in a comfy Victorian chair to enjoy an excellent maple latte and admire some of the local art and photography was definitely far from a detriment to my trip, not to mention they roast their own coffee and offer up some gelato and crepes. Frontside Grind is another coffee roasting company just across the street from The Met. Frontside has a much more modern vibe, and is still a great stop for a nicely made cup of coffee on the road, though the next time I pass through North Conway I see myself spending more time at The Met, even though Frontside offers a more expansive food menu including bagels, sandwiches, and salads. Farther into the Mountains, in Gorham, is my personal favorite spot, White Mountain Café and Bookstore. This café serves up bagels, sandwiches, wraps, soups, quiche, and even classic baked goods, including muffins, scones, croissants, cookies, and cakes. Put all of that within easy driving distance of the Dolly Copp Campground, add some surprisingly good prices and a great cup of coffee (not to mention sodas and all kinds of other beverages), and you’ve got yourself what is essentially a no-brainer stop if you’re in the Whites. After or during your meal there, grab a book or a map from the adjacent bookstore or take advantage of the Wi-Fi and outlets to get caught up on all that picture review and editing you’re going to need to do after exploring such a great region of New England.
Where to Explore and What to Do?
The White Mountains offer an almost ridiculous range of things to do, including hiking, backpacking, kayaking, canoeing, camping and, of course, overlanding. If you’re looking for a quick and easy hike, Glen Ellis Falls provides one, with stairs for accessibility, that’ll take you to a beautiful cascade nearly 70 feet tall in one of the valleys. It’s an incredible sight and definitely worth a visit. If you’re looking for something a little more ambitious, consider hiking one of the New Hampshire 4,000-footers, or take on one of the Presidential Mountains: Madison, Adams, Washington, Jefferson, Monroe, etc. I had the privilege of hiking Mount Madison via the Airline Trail alongside the University of New England Outing Club. While it’s manageable to summit Madison and return in one day if you start early, the Outing Club and I stayed in the Appalachian Mountain Club Hut overnight. While a little pricey and by reservation only, a night in the hut is worth its weight in gold. In season you will have delicious meals prepared for you, warm coffee and cocoa, and a bunk with mattress, wool blankets, and a pillow. The following morning we experienced iconic White Mountain weather – a toasty temperature of zero degrees with wind chill, and winds ranging from 30 to 50mph at the summit. Regardless, the Outing Club and I braved the weather and summited Madison, a hike definitely worth experiencing. You can also find some decent areas to put in some off-pavement mileage in the Whites. For the sake of the protection of the trails and routes out there, I will not give exact locations, but the farther north you go the more luck you will have in hunting down some nice routes. Contact groups like ExploringNH and Northeast Overland and they will lead you to some excellent spots to get all four tires spinning off pavement.
If you haven’t already, start planning your overland escapade out into the Whites and New England in general. The Whites have more than enough for a weekend or longer adventure and are sure to treat you and your rig, and even the family, well.
Author – Max Ablicki is an 18-year-old adventure and overland enthusiast who has explored more than 15,00 miles of New England from the highways to the trails. Max has finished two New England trips, one a 700-mile loop of New England reaching Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine, and the second trip being a 500-mile tour of the northern New England hot spots such as the White Mountains and Acadia National Park. You can see more of Max’s adventures and photography on Instagram via @ablicki.
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