The Boise State features a treasure trove of opportunity for overland and outdoors adventure
Every summer the girls and I pack up the Land Cruiser and take off to the mountains of Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado. Cool temperatures, meadows of wildflowers, and fly fishing for trout draw us to the high country. Most backcountry travelers know of the Teton, San Juan, Rocky, and Wasatch mountain ranges. While most would agree the peaks in those ranges are fantastic and, some would say, iconic landscapes of the intermountain west, I knew instinctively there had to be other places to venture.
One evening while surfing the internet, I came across a website for Sun Valley, Idaho. Idaho? After a few more minutes of clicking the mouse, Idaho looked to be a place worthy of adventure and exploration. I purchased an Idaho Benchmark map and noticed that the panhandle-shaped state is riddled with forest roads and floatable rivers. The northern two-thirds is covered in national forests or wilderness areas. There are over 100 mountain ranges in Idaho! The “Potato State” calls travelers to explore and wander its mountain ranges, rivers, hot springs, trails, and lakes. Idaho was calling and it was time to pack-up.
My wife Louise, daughter Lilly, and I decided to travel north on I-15 through Utah and into Idaho for an eight-day excursion. As we passed the nuclear power plant of Arco, I was reminded that the southern part of the state is high desert and an ancient flood plain of the mighty Snake River. Arco is a nuclear energy town and the eastern gateway to the Sawtooths. In the distance, the mountain range glows in the evening light. We motored into Mackay where the contrast with our home state of Utah is dramatic. Despite the “Greatest Snow on Earth,” Utah is known for its very dry climate. Idaho is a land of mountains, forests, and rivers. Luckily, we packed our fly rods, and Lilly was eager to cast her new Orvis. When we cast a fly, we’ve found our place.
The next morning, we enjoyed the sun and surroundings while we fished the Big Lost River. The mountain scenery is postcard perfect — Castle Peak and Copper Basin beckon in the distance. It was one of those perfect summer mornings. A pair of Chacos and a fly rod are all we needed to wade these waters and hook some trout. Before lunch, we hiked to Fall Creek Falls; Lilly played in the waterfall pools and we noticed the absence of people. Overcrowding isn’t an issue; we enjoyed our own private Idaho.
Most of the dirt roads crisscrossing Idaho are easily traveled, but our route to Ketchum/Sun Valley from Trail Creek Summit is a steep gravel road requiring low gearing to save our brakes. Sun Valley is a summer playground. It lies in a valley surrounded by sage-covered mountains with a gorgeous river, the Big Wood, flowing right through town. Today, it’s a fly-fishing and mountain biking Mecca. With 400 miles of single-track trails, our overland adventure included two wheels, not just four.
The Cruiser ascended the Corral Creek Road and we pulled into one of the free, designated primitive campsites. Lilly played in the creek, Louise prepared dinner, and I got the bikes ready for an evening ride. Yep, this far north the sun doesn’t set until well past nine o’clock. As the sun finally fell behind Bald Mountain, we threw on an extra layer and pedaled this lovely landscape. The alpenglow was a delight!
There is just no other way to put it: Sun Valley is simply a great place to hang out for a few days. And hang out is what we did with fishing in the morning and biking in the afternoon. Life is simple . . . life is good. The following morning, we decided to bike into town via the Corral Creek single-track and enjoyed a killer breakfast at The Kneadery. With full stomachs, we rode over to Silver Creek Outfitters to purchase a few more flies for the afternoon hatch. We pedaled back to camp and along the way we passed the Trail Creek National Forest Campground. This is the only campground in the area. Dispersed camping is the name of the game here! Whether its dirt single-track or a paved trail, the phenomenal trail network allowed us to bike/hike anywhere in Ketchum/Sun Valley.
That afternoon, the Green Drake hatch was on and so were we. Lilly was casting the new setup given to her by her Grandfather; Louise, a former fly fishing guide, was focused on the riffles; and I simply soaked up our surroundings. It was a grand Idaho day! After a trout-filled afternoon, we biked back, stopping at Wiseguy Pizza Pie to scarf down a few slices. If there is one terrible thing about the Ketchum/Sun Valley area it was that we didn’t want to leave.
The next day, we stopped at Atkinson’s Market in the town square and stocked up on a few supplies. We followed the Warm Springs Road in the Land Cruiser as it weaves its way out of town. Passing the northern side of the Sun Valley Ski Resort, the road turns to dirt. The first 10 miles are smooth as the road led us to Frenchman’s Bend Hot Springs. Luckily, we had the springs to ourselves. The clear, cool water of the Warm Spring River flowed over my arm while bubbling water boiled up from the earth. Lilly floated and frolicked, commenting on the smell of “rotten eggs.” It was a delightful, relaxing place. We dried off and rallied westward, following the road up towards Dollarhide Summit and launching into the true wilds of Idaho.
From there I dropped the Land Cruiser into low gear as we crested Dollarhide Summit. The other side was smooth going. We glided down through aspen and eventually passed Worswick Hot Springs. Worswick is too warm for a full-body plunge so we soaked our feet and enjoyed the scenery. Farther down the road, we paralleled another river, the South Fork of the Boise. Many trout-filled holes begged to be fished so we stopped and Louise dropped a Caddis fly in the water with a hungry trout quickly hammering it. I felt like we were in a scene from the movie, The River Runs Through It. It was another beautiful Idaho backcountry day.
The next day’s dawn was clear and warm. We jumped back into the LC and drove westward on Forest Road 227. The mission today was to explore hot springs and ghost towns. Our first stop was Baumgartner Campground. Not for the camping but for the 111-degree concrete hot spring pool. With a quick change of clothes, we soaked in the hot spring in no time. Lilly’s scream informed us that this is definitely a “hot” hot spring pool! We savored the views of towering Ponderosa Pines. Our muscles were relaxed as we traveled into the town of Featherville. Almost immediately, we saw the sign: Featherville Saloon. Game on as it was a “must stop”. It felt like we had entered a time machine—transported 50 years into the past. Lilly and Louise took a short stroll while I sipped a beer on the sun-baked porch deep in the Trinity Mountains. Miles later, daylight faded away as we approached Rocky Bar, a ghost town of mining glory. It was nostalgic to walk and ponder the daily life of past miners searching for their riches.
Heading north on Highway 21 toward Stanley, the enormity of the Idaho backcountry is overwhelming. One could spend a lifetime exploring this country. Stanley’s dirt roads welcomed us. The large slices of French toast from the Stanley Baking Company satisfied our appetites. People come here primarily because Stanley is the gateway to the Frank Church Wilderness where planes take rafters into the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. We enjoyed the morning before kayaking the Upper Salmon River ourselves. This section flows right through town and provides an excellent day float and outstanding fly fishing. Our boats drifted down the Salmon as the mighty Sawtooth peaks waved goodbye. From there our next destination was Sunbeam and our Idaho history lesson was about to intensify.
Idaho has many natural beauties to behold, but we tried to comprehend what man did 70 years ago. The Yankee Fork Dredge is a relic of past mining days. Today, the Forest Service owns the dredge and allows daily tours through it. We walked the plank and entered this gold dredging machine. It was a beast. For 12 years, the dredge floated and dug the 5-½ mile claim along the Yankee Fork River, a tributary of the Salmon. Lilly was fascinated, asking all sorts of questions that popped into her head. Afterward, we followed the forest road east to Custer, a former mining town and now a state park. Many of the buildings are gone due to forest fires, avalanches, and old age but some still exist: the saloon, schoolhouse, blacksmith shop, and miner’s cabins. As we stretched our legs and wandered in and out of the abandoned buildings, we reflected upon the lives of miners long ago. A tough existence.
The dirt track continued east, and we found a delightful place to camp along the Yankee Fork River. Surprisingly, firewood was already cut and stacked for us. Lilly and I awoke the following morning and noticed something strange in the water. It was a sizeable fish which we were not familiar with. We were mesmerized! I then realized it was a salmon making a run to its home waters. Death was near, but its duty was unfulfilled. It was a truly astonishing sight as Salmon used to run up this stream every year, but now the journey back from the Pacific is nearly impossible.
With the tent packed, we headed east along an old stage route that went through Challis, Custer, and Sunbeam. On this day, it was a beautiful, easy-to-navigate dirt road. We stopped and fished numerous times. The streams’ names? There were so many. Louise was stoked when she caught a yellow-belly rainbow trout. The road crossed streams and meadows, and we crested a few summits on our way to Challis.
We topped off gas and grabbed an ice cream for Lilly. The LC pointed south and our eight-day adventure neared its end. Collectively, we felt sad but were satisfied with our journey. The problem was I gazed at the Benchmark Map again and realized, next time, we must . . .
Idaho Adventure Planning Tips:
Travel Season – June through August is prime! The temperatures are stellar, and there is plenty of daylight to explore/play. The only drawback to August is that it can be peak fire season. A few years back, Sun Valley was on the verge of being engulfed in flames. Ketchum is the actual name of the town. Sun Valley is the name of the ski and golf resort. However, many people including myself, refer to the entire area as Sun Valley.
Information – The locals are always friendly, but the offices below offered help on routes, hikes, bike rides, and hot springs.
- Ketchum Ranger District 206 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum, ID
Phone: 208-622-5371
- Sawtooth National Recreation Area (Sawtooth NRA) 5 North Fork Canyon Road, Ketchum ID
Phone: 208-727-5000
- Stanley Ranger Station located about three miles south of Stanley on State Highway 75
Fishing – The month of July is the best based on our experience. The melt from the high country is over, and the water is clear and navigable with good flows and good action. We’ve had luck in all the rivers…Big Wood, Trail Creek, Salmon, Yankee Fork, South Fork of the Boise, and Big Lost River to name a few. Make an effort to stop at Silver Creek Outfitters in Ketchum for local knowledge and flies. Idaho is a land full of wading water. A solid, steady pair of water shoes and a lanyard with a few flies and gink will get the job done.
Vehicle Needs – Any stock 4-wheel drive would be fine as there are mostly smooth gravel roads with a few patches of snow and some puddles. Carry a full-size spare as you’ll be a long way from a tire repair shop.
Biking/Hiking – If you’re a biker or hiker, pack the gear as Sun Valley has some of the best single-track in the west! Adam’s Gulch, Corral Creek Trail, Warm Spring’s Trail, and Cold Spring’s Trail will spike the fun factor needle! Close to Stanley, the Fisher Creek Trail might be the most fun anyone can have on a bike.
Hike to the Fish Creek Falls on the Waterfall Trail. An enjoyable hike to Titus Lake awaits near Galena Summit. For great views, hike up to Pioneer Cabin. We always stop at Sturtevant’s in downtown Ketchum for maps and helpful hints.
Groceries/Supplies and Restaurants – Pack plenty of groceries. A good grocery store is hard to find so stock up in Burley, Twin Falls, or Hailey. You can find groceries in other towns but variety is lacking. Stanley has a small store, Challis has an adequate one, and Sun Valley/Ketchum has one but it’s expensive.
- Wiseguy Pizza Pie 460 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum. Right off of Town Square. Be a local, and enjoy some great pizza pie!
- The Kneadery 260 Leadville Avenue, Ketchum. Great Breakfast! Expect a short wait. Yummy!
- Stanley Baking Company and Cafe 250 Wall Street, Stanley. Great breakfast. Expect a wait, but it’s worth it.
- Papa Brunee’s 37 Ace of Diamonds Street, Stanley. Good pizza!
Navigation – The Benchmark Idaho map is accurate and dependable. It’s my map of choice! Also, onX Maps provides exceptional data for exploring the state’s vast public lands and is available on Apple and Android devices.
www.benchmarkmaps.com
www.onxmaps.com
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