A paddling trip over several days through Marble Canyon

We first drove to Lee’s Ferry on a whim. It was one of those map reading moments deciding between the fast way and the fun way – the choice was obviously clear. As soon as we veered left off the 89 onto the 89A the little traffic dissipated and the scenery became a movie set. We traversed the prairie plateau until a quick descent had us 467 feet above the Colorado River adjacent to the historical Old Navajo Bridge. And within moments it was gone like a well kept secret in the heart of the prairie trenching its way through the complex system that eventually becomes the Grand Canyon.

At the front end of an early summer heat wave, we were stopping in Lees Ferry to swim – likely the only place south of the Glen Canyon Dam that the Colorado River is accessible by car until after the Grand Canyon. The road descends slowly through the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area to the historical town of Lee’s Ferry now known for probably just two things – incredible trout fishing and the put in for the Grand Canyon. After an icy dip in the year round 46 degree water we wandered up to the commercial sized loading ramp and began poking around.

Testing our new craft in Antelope Canyon prior to committing to a multi-day trip on Marble Canyon.

There are three ways into Marble Canyon – The Ropes Trail, paddling upstream or paying for a backhaul. Clearly I am happy with the choice I made for our family and gear.

After studying the maps and speaking to a ranger, I realized that a 15 mile section of river sat upstream within the mystifying walls of Marble Canyon. The tinder was building and the match drew closer. The week before we had lined up the purchase of two tandem inflatable kayaks (duckies) closer to Saint George, UT and this seemed like an ideal maiden voyage. We altered our plans the following day, blasted across Southern, UT and returned with our eyes set on a paddle trip down Marble Canyon within the week.

We thought we should test our watercraft before this multi-day journey, so our first day trip took us out of Antelope Point Marina (Public launch closed due to Covid-19) and into Page, Arizona’s biggest attraction – Antelope Canyon. While most people descend in packed tour groups by land, we paddled six miles round trip through a cliff jumpers paradise to the mouth of a seemingly endless slot canyon.

Waterfront camping means the kids have endless entertainment. Here Alfonso gets a bite on his line.

Sofi reeling one of a handful of rainbow trout we caught and released on the river.

With this trip under our belts, we felt ready to take on Marble Canyon – which could be floated in a day, but we opted to paddle over three days to make the most out of the investment in the backhaul shuttle up river. At $80 a person plus $20 some odd dollars per boat and additional charges if you bring more than 100 lbs of gear, the trip is not a freebie. However as soon as I stepped aboard the shuttle and it planed out – I didn’t care what it cost. For 30 minutes we were awed by Marble Canyon, the crystal clear water with 30 feet of underwater visibility, the countless trout fisherman who had clearly traveled far and wide and of course the fact that we had three days ahead of us to explore this magnificent crack in the earth.

Dale, of Marble Canyon Outfitters, our captain, showed us the mighty Glen Canyon Dam and shared the fact that the concrete is 100 yards thick at the bottom while also pointing out the road that traverses inside the canyon wall for engineers access to the dam – both incredible engineering feats. Dale waved goodbye and we were grinning wide truly in our happy place knowing that our next three days would be spent without cell phone service, floating down this beautiful canyon and connecting with each other as a family.

Get ready for frozen feet in the consistent 46 degree water.

Rounding the last corner of the River before Lee’s Ferry when the river turns to the permitted section of the Grand Canyon.

PRO TIPS:

  • Canyon can be paddled in a day or multi-day trip and some even consider paddling upstream
  • Campgrounds have a limit so get there early to choose your ideal spots – Ferry Swale and 6th mile were our preference for a two night trip.
  • There is a walking trail at the top of the canyon called the Ropes Trail. This is steep, difficult and down a canyon face. Only do this if your fitness is high, you have a packraft and are on a shoestring budget to avoid the backhaul charge.
  • Get an AZ fishing license and bring a rod with fishing lowers that sink.
  • If you go in summer, bring a sunshade – the sun is relentless.

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